TRÜ by ARTUR MARTINEZ
-not ranked in 2025-
After all the noise surrounding the opening of this new restaurant from chef Artur Martínez — formerly of Aürt — we felt almost obliged to go, despite not being especially eager to do so for precisely that reason: the overload of media exposure, almost always grandiose and almost never objective, read less like serious food journalism than like a coordinated publicity campaign.
The restaurant occupies the former Palo Verde space, and it is undeniably handsome.
Beyond that, there is not much more we can say in its favor. The conception of the dishes feels strained, pushing hard toward a kind of studied simplicity that then collides head-on with the overblown, endlessly repeated rhetoric of the dining room. The result is a place that talks like a Michelin restaurant but cooks like a tavern: immaculate technique, no question, but a concept so mannered and self-conscious that it finally comes off as artificial.
Then there is the price, which feels wildly inflated. It does not correspond to the quality of the food, nor to the tired, repetitive discourse delivered tableside as though it were part of the menu itself. For a meal hovering around €100 per person, the value proposition is simply not there.
The wine service is not remotely where it should be for a place operating at that price point. Neither the glassware nor the wines being poured were even passable. When we asked about them, one very pleasant waiter told us, with disarming honesty, that he simply did not know anything about wine.
We hope TRÜ improves with time. As it stands, though, it struck us as an exercise in vanity and smoke-and-mirrors gastronomy — all self-regard, all fireworks, and a bill that asks far more than the experience can justify.
Clean: 8/10
Comfort: 8/10
Food: 6.5/10
Wine: 5/10
Service: 5/10
The Experience: 5/10
Price: 115€/pax